Patagonia First ascents Frey

31.12.2017 we are climbing in the sun on the best granite in cracks and corners into the unknown. Because no one has climbed these lines before us, even though they are only 2h away from Refugio Frey, one of the most famous climbing areas in Argentina. On this day we are able to open 4 new lines and this is only a fraction of the potential that is still waiting here. I can't believe it, because in Europe such valleys with so much unclimbed rock can no longer be found. Only one route from the year 93 adorns one of the numerous rock needles, the rest is unclimbed. While I am belaying and letting my gaze wander over the valley, I become more and more aware that I want to put up first ascents here, together with my Argentine friends. So on the last day of the year, I make the decision not to take my return flight at the end of January, but to stay longer in Patagonia.

That is the beginning of an incredible summer, in which great friendships are formed and we manage to make over 55 first ascents.

Our valley is called Minialaska by the skiers in winter, which is why we use this name too. We set up our camp in an idyllic spot: Between boulders through which a crystal clear river flows. The weather is so good that we sleep under the open sky and enjoy the magnificent starry canopy above us. While only a few hours away, summer tourism is booming and all the hikers are out and about, we are all alone here in "our valley" and can enjoy nature in its full wildness and beauty.

Every morning we are woken by the warmth of the sun's rays, drink our mate and choose which line we will open next. A paradise that makes the climber's heart beat faster. The lines are characterized by cracks, corners and slabs. We do first ascents from the ground up, as much as possible using only mobile protection. And often we are surprised how protection possibilities can be found that we hadn't expected. If nothing can be found, we place bolts from the climbing position or on shaky hooks or climb runout, far above the last protection. Our motivation is tireless and so we spend the whole of January putting up routes here and then climbing them redpoint. This requires a lot of energy and so we usually climb 4-5 days in our valley, then hike down to get food supplies and rest for 1-3 days before hiking back up. We are a group of Argentine climbers from Bariloche, into which I have integrated myself. An incredibly strong friendship develops between us all and we are living a dream. Often we sit together in the evenings, talking, raving about our new routes and listening to the songs of the guitar. Sometimes the guitar comes with us onto the wall and for the full moon we all climb to the summit of a freestanding rock needle, named ET after its shape, and haul the guitar, bivy gear and a melon up there. To get to the summit, we simply establish 2 pitches of best granite with cracks and a roof. The routes here are between 2-4 pitches and we set up rappel lines from all rock needles and name them, as most were nameless until now. Thus numerous new pitches of incredible quality and varying difficulties up to approx. 7b are created on Gordo, Ciego, Chino Bateador, ET, Mini-ET, indomnita, hermanita,...